From fine lines in your 30s to pigmentation in your 40s and crepiness in your 60s, the award-winning beauty expert presents her all-decades guide for dealing with the after-effects of too much sun
“Sun damage will always catch up with you,” beauty expert Alison Young ominously warns us and with her 30 years in the beauty industry, we take heed of her cautionary words. While in decades gone by, a tan was a marker of health (and wealth), now, people are wising up to the fact that it’s anything but.
As Alison explains, the colour change is an indicator that your body’s natural defence mechanism is kicking in. “The browning of the skin is a sign of trauma, where the UVA/UVB rays have ignited melanin production in our skin cells to absorb the radiation causing an inflammation and histamine reaction – a sun tan is the skin’s way of protecting itself. Ultimately, there is no such thing as a damage-free sun tan, unless it comes from a bottle.”
When skin burns, it can cause serious long-term cell memory damage, the cosmetic effects of which can manifest themselves in the short and long-term (and more importantly, lead to an increased chance of developing skin cancer too). “When the sun’s rays go through the skin, they snap the collagen and elastin and degenerate the fibroblast renewal process which creates the mattress of the skin,” explains Alison.
“The first signs of sun damage will initially appear as dehydration or thickening of the skin but you won’t notice the true effects of sun damage until about 10 years later. You may think that being a sun worshipper in your 20s isn’t making a difference but as soon as you hit your 30s, you will begin to notice premature wrinkles and deepened lines, pigmentation in your 40s, and in the later years most likely slackened, lined and crepey skin.”
It’s a trajectory that wearing year-long SPF (check out some of our
Liz Earle Cleanse + Polish Hot Cloth Cleanser, £15 for 100ml
“Cleansing is crucial for this age group. It’s necessary to remove any
IT Cosmetics CC+ Cream SPF 50+, £30 for 32ml
“This is a great all-in-one for those who haven’t got sun protection high on their agenda. If you want Instagram filter-esque coverage with the added benefit of SPF protection, then this is fantastic.”
Pixi Glow Tonic, £18 for 250ml
“Use Pixi Glow Tonic once a day in the evening to treat pigmentation issues. As a general rule, you should avoid the sun entirely when using any acid or product used to treat pigmentation. For best results, start these treatments in the autumn or winter, and always apply an SPF 50 the next day. If you are using these in the summer, you must keep your face out of the sun – wear a hat or keep your face in the shade otherwise you’ll exacerbate the issue you’re trying to treat.”
Ren Rosa Centifolia range, from £17
“Your 30s are a good time to start using coordinating brand ranges – Ren’s Rosa Centifolia is a good place to start for this age group.”
In your 40s
“Your 40s are when you will start seeing more obvious, deepened lines from sun damage. Predominantly ones on the forehead, crow’s feet and eyelids.”
Alison’s top product picks
Elemis Pro-Collagen Overnight Matrix, £145 for 50ml
“Freckle blurring can also be an issue. Now is definitely the time to start adding in powerful night treatments such as this one. You’ll notice the skin start to recover quicker.”
Alpha H Liquid Gold, £33.50 for 100ml
“If you’re able to use acids on the skin, use this night toner/serum to minimise pigmentation, freckle blurring and the thickening of the skin from sun damage. With five per cent glycolic acid, it works to resurface the skin and boost collagen and elastin production.”
Retinols
“If you’ve really overexposed your skin to the sun in your early years, then you can benefit from introducing a
“When it comes to the more ‘advanced’ treatments like retinols or microneedling, it’s important to note that these shouldn’t be carried out straight after sun exposure – you don’t want to immediately cause further trauma to the skin. Instead, opt for these treatments in the autumn or winter time.”
In your 50s
“Those who have experienced sun damage and are in their 50s are often concerned about slackening of the skin all over the face and chest, crepey lines, eyelid sagging and laughter lines. If you’re also going through the
Jane Scrivner Intense Oil, £12.50 for 30ml
“Jane Scrivner Intense Oil contains 100 per cent single estate rosa mosqueta oil which will be gentle on sensitive skin while working to repair sun damage, pigmentation and dryness.”
Ultrasun Anti-Pigmentation SPF 50+, £32 for 50ml
“This should be worn all year round – it’s gentle for sensitised skin, will protect you from UVA/UVB damage and improve any existing pigmentation thanks to illumiscin [stabilised
L(A)B Prolift+, £260
“While your skin might not be able to take active ingredients, you will be able to use non-invasive at-home beauty devices like the L(A)B Prolift+. This device can really make a difference. It uses galvanic current, red and blue light therapy and you can use your existing skincare alongside the treatment.”
In your 60s
“In your 60s, you’ll be experiencing the same issues as those in your 50s but most likely with added crepiness of the eye and neck area. Many women in their 60s who have experienced sun damage will also experience thinning skin.”
Alison’s top product picks
Elemis Papaya Enzyme Peel, £34.50 for 50ml
“You still need to be regularly exfoliating your skin in your 60s to encourage and speed up cell turnover, but the skin may be too thin for mechanical dermabrasion. Instead, opt for a gentler chemical exfoliation like Elemis’ Papaya Enzyme Peel. The fruit enzymes will work to chemically break down the surface layer of dead, dull skin.”
Prai Ageless Throat and Decolletage Creme, £37 for 100ml
“Treat the neck and
Lancome Advanced Genifique, £59 for 30ml
“Dullness is a common concern for women in their 60s. Lancome’s Advanced Genefique contains patented technology with lots of antioxidants to boost skin’s vitality and energy.”
In your 70s
“When you get into your 70s, ageing in the form of crepiness continues to develop into what is called hashtag ageing (like the # symbol) mostly on the chest, décolleté and cheeks. This can be accelerated from earlier sun damage.”
Alison’s top product picks
In your 80s
“For women in their 80s, skin will be fragile and slow to heal. Now is the time to go back to simple, clean and ‘free-from’ skincare formulas. You want to focus on softening and hydrating the skin.”
Neal’s Yard Rosehip Oil, £17.50 for 50ml
“Neal’s Yard has a great extraction process so you can feel confident that you’re using a quality oil on your skin.”
Decleor Aromessence Marjolaine Oil Serum, £77 for 15ml and Night Balm, £48 for 15ml
“These are 100 per cent natural and will nourish, hydrate and soothe fragile skin.”
